I had the privilege to attend a ‘3 day crash course’ on Organic Farming
at “University of California Santa Cruz” headed by a professor who also
had an opportunity to work with Masanobu Fukuoka years back. It was an
amazing experience, I shall say. Around 18 or so like-minded people
attended the course. UCSC has 2 farms. One, a 25 acres plot and the
second one, a 3 acres plot. Both are 100% organically grown.
I
was owe struck by the amount of produces they grow (mainly veggies and
fruits) in the 3 acres of land. Some of the veggies grown are Radish,
Potato, Onion, Lettuce, multiple varieties of Capsicum, Basil, couple of
varieties of Beans, Kale..the list goes on. The main fruits were Apple,
Strawberry and Peach.
Both the farms had clay type soil few years back (5 years to be precise). So they did one round of “double digging” (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Double_digging)
to work up the soil and added compost. Compost was added at a rate of 1
cubic foot per square foot. Next step was to grow cover crops like Soy
beans, Bell beans, Fava beans, Clover and Alfalfa. They did this few
seasons. i.e one winter cover crop and then a summer cover crop... This
helped the soil structure tremendously in terms of aggregation of the
soil, aeration, nitrogen content etc. Word of caution, double
digging SHOULD not be practiced as a regular/frequent cultivation
method. It can harm the well structured soil, kill microbial activities
and cause nutrition leach.
Seasonal veggies are grown year round.
The cultivation practice is to mix cover crops to the soil by chopping
them to smaller pieces around 7-10 days prior to planting the actual
crop. Then they would do “single digging” (single digging is not more
than 6-12 inches deep), add compost (.5 - 1 shovel per square foot) and
mix them up (they call this “side forking”). So that means the only fertilizer they add is cover crops and compost.
The
other interesting practice they follow is to intercrop veggies a lot.
For eg:- they would grow deep rooted plants (ex: capsicum, tomato etc)
as main crops and grow shallow root system varieties (ex: onion, radish
etc) as intercrop making maximum use of space. Ex:- Capsicum were
planted at 14 inches apart. Between rows of capsicum they would plant
radish at a spacing of 3 inches which is harvested in about 30 days. Another interesting stuff that they followed was to plant “Trap crops”
like basil, mint, flowers etc on the boundaries of the each bed. This
ensured warding off insects/pests from the main crop.
No pesticides
or insecticides are used. Not even a soap spray! For apples and peaches,
pheromone traps were used. Again no organic sprays or anything of that
sort! Mulching is practiced religiously for tree crops and bushes which ensures moisture level at all times.
Compost
Method: When the topic of Composting came up, I was all excited abt it.
I was ready to give my 2 cents on vermi-composting . But to my alas,
they never use vermi-compost. Instead, decomposition of material was
done solely by micro-organisms. 3-4 layers of horse poop or cow dung,
hay, greens and kitchen wastes were made. A nominal amount of water was
sprayed on top of the pile to moist the same and it was left covered
with a plastic sheet. Within 48 hours or so the temperature would rise
considerably. If the temperature drops after few days, it needs little
turning and mixing. By 3 months you have a sweet smelling black/brown
superbly looking “gold”. Checkout the temperature before you apply it to
plants though. I felt the whole process of composting this was very
easy to manage and execute compared to vermi-composting in terms of
having to set up separate/dedicated vermi-compost units, sieving and
separating compost from worms and carrying it to different parts of the
plot. You can have such smaller compost piles in several locations in
your plot, so the labor requirement can be minimized and manageability
is efficient.
One other piece of information that I thought very
important was to not apply fresh animal manures directly to the plants.
This would cause great degree of risks in terms to carrying harmful
bacteria, fungi, pathogens etc to the soil and plants. Depending upon
what the animals eat, the chances of losing a whole season of crop is
very much possible. Especially true when you are purchasing cow dung or
sheep manure or chicken poop from a source where these animals/birds are
raised on a commercial scale via in-organic method and are not healthy.
If you tickle the earth with a hoe, she laughs with a harvest.
thelearningfarmer@yahoo.com
Monday, June 25, 2012
Visit to green houses
There was always a fascination to visit the huge green houses that I had seen over the TV programs and various video clipping off the internet. Finally got the chance to visit few of them in one of the coastal towns of California.
These green houses are humongous spanning several acres with fully automated setup to irrigate and fertilize.Couple of them were abt 10 acres in size! We talk in square meter or square yard in India when it comes to green houses/polyhouse. I wonder why is it so expensive to set up a green house in India considering the average annual income of a farmer!
Flowers like Gerbera, Rose, herbs and spices were all grown inside these "weather-proof shelters". Both Gerbera and roses were grown hydroponically in coconut coir-pith medium. Another interesting fact was that the water recycling process. The plants get water about 6-8 times normally and 10-14 times during the summer days and the water that drips through the plant containers are collected and send back to the filtration/recycle system and it gets re-used. One of the farm mangers claimed that the water conservation is about 70%.
The Gerbera plants are productive for about 3 years and after that the yield starts decreasing and it is time for replanting. All the plants were tissue culture from Europe and they produced about 5-6 stems a month. In India the average price of a Gerbera plant is around Rs. 35 and to fill in a 1000 Sq Meter green house one will need to spend a good Rs 2.5 Lacs (around 7000 plants).Wish if Govt of India had come up with these kinds of plants on a subsidized rate so that small and marginal farmers could benefit.
These green houses are humongous spanning several acres with fully automated setup to irrigate and fertilize.Couple of them were abt 10 acres in size! We talk in square meter or square yard in India when it comes to green houses/polyhouse. I wonder why is it so expensive to set up a green house in India considering the average annual income of a farmer!
Flowers like Gerbera, Rose, herbs and spices were all grown inside these "weather-proof shelters". Both Gerbera and roses were grown hydroponically in coconut coir-pith medium. Another interesting fact was that the water recycling process. The plants get water about 6-8 times normally and 10-14 times during the summer days and the water that drips through the plant containers are collected and send back to the filtration/recycle system and it gets re-used. One of the farm mangers claimed that the water conservation is about 70%.
The Gerbera plants are productive for about 3 years and after that the yield starts decreasing and it is time for replanting. All the plants were tissue culture from Europe and they produced about 5-6 stems a month. In India the average price of a Gerbera plant is around Rs. 35 and to fill in a 1000 Sq Meter green house one will need to spend a good Rs 2.5 Lacs (around 7000 plants).Wish if Govt of India had come up with these kinds of plants on a subsidized rate so that small and marginal farmers could benefit.
Tuesday, June 19, 2012
Preserving his inheritance
Fired by zeal for conservation of genetic diversity in crops, an organic
farmer from the Mysore region has embarked on a project to establish
what is reckoned to be India's first paddy museum.
Ghani Khan of Kirugavulu in Malavalli taluk of Mandya district
cultivates and conserves more than 300 varieties of paddy and rice, most
of which do not make it to the market and may be lost to posterity.
However, Mr. Khan, who has inherited his forefathers' farmland donated
by Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan more than 200 years ago, has converted his
20-acre-plot to a genetic hotspot with a variety of crops, dominated by
paddy and mango. His paddy project has led him to convert a portion of
his house into a museum, which will be ready in a few months' time.
Speaking to The Hindu, Mr. Khan said paddy varieties conserved by
him include Jeerge Sanna, Gandasale, Bilinellu, Raskadam, Rajmudi and
Pakistan Basmati, to name a few, and he has dedicated nearly 3 acres of
land for their cultivation and demonstration.
Part of his house
“The first floor of my house will be converted to a paddy museum, where
samples of nearly 300 varieties of paddy acquired from different places,
cultivated and preserved by me, will be on display,” said Mr. Khan, who
continues to acquire rare varieties of paddy and augment his
collection.
He said he had invested half his income in developing the paddy museum,
and a senior farmer would be invited to inaugurate it, he added. While
the paddy museum was expected to draw like-minded conservationists to
his farm, Mr. Khan also gets regular visitors for the rare mangoes he
cultivates. At the last count, there were 120 varieties of mango in his
farm including Mangmari, Jeerge Maavu, Shakkargubbi and Mosambi ka aam,
none of which are commonly available.
'Utmost care'
“I have preserved these varieties of mango as an inheritance from my
forefathers and maintain the orchards with utmost care, though I do not
get any support from the Government for this,” he said.
Notwithstanding his efforts and drive to protect crop diversity, the
going is tough for Mr. Khan owing to loss of income, as 3 acres of land
is earmarked for paddy demonstration. “It is easy to introduce Alphonso
and Badami in my orchard, which will increase my earnings. But if I
cease to cultivate or fail to conserve these varieties, they will be
lost to posterity,” Mr. Khan remarked.
No assistance
Apart from a token award and a title of Krishi Pandit, which is
routinely conferred on farmers every year, there is little by way of
Government assistance for Mr. Khan, who was promised that his orchard
and farmland would be declared a biodiversity hotspot.
Though he is under tremendous pressure from his well-wishers and a few
of his family members to switch to conventional agriculture, the
conservationist in him refuses to compromise.
However, Mr. Khan has support from the Bangalore-based Sahaja Samruddha,
an organic farmers' association that provides him market linkage.
Not content with cultivating and conserving, Mr. Khan has tied up with
the local government school, whose students visit the farm to learn
about organic and natural farming “This is important, as the new
generation of children even in villages are fast losing touch with the
natural world and believe in chemical farming,” said Mr. Khan.
Source: thehindu.com
Source: thehindu.com
Wednesday, June 6, 2012
A crash course in fertilizers
Fertilizer sections at nurseries, garden centers, and supply stores dazzle the gardener. The shelves are piled with boxes and bottles, the floors covered with bags stacked high. Labels identify the package contents as "rose food" or "vegetable food," "lawn fertilizer" or "general-purpose fertilizer." In some stores, you'll find bins filled with bone meal, blood meal, or hoof-and-horn meal ― all labeled "natural fertilizer." Choosing the right products to keep your plants healthy can often be a bit confusing.
Understanding N-P-K
Regardless of its type, any fertilizer you buy will come with information about the nutrients it contains. Prominently featured will be the N-P-K ratio, the percentage the product contains by volume of nitrogen (chemical symbol N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). A 16-16-16 fertilizer, for example, contains 16% nitrogen, 16% phosphorus, and 16% potassium. A 25-4-2 formulation contains 25% nitrogen, 4% phosphorus, and 2% potassium.
All fertilizers contain at least one of these components; if any is missing, the ratio will show a zero for that nutrient (a 12-0-0 fertilizer contains nitrogen but no phosphorus or potassium, for instance). Boxed, bagged, and bottled products display the N-P-K ratio on the label. For fertilizers sold in bulk from self-serve bins, the ratio is noted on the bin; for future reference, be sure to write the information on the bags you fill and bring home.
COMPLETE AND INCOMPLETE FERTILIZERS
A fertilizer containing all three major nutrients is called a complete fertilizer; a product that supplies only one or two of them is an incomplete fertilizer. Using a complete fertilizer for every garden purpose seems sensible, but in fact it isn't always the best choice. If the soil contains sufficient phosphorus and potassium and is deficient only in nitrogen (as is often the case), you can save money by using an incomplete fertilizer that provides nitrogen alone (ammonium sulfate, for example). In some instances, complete fertilizers can even harm a plant. Exotic, bright-blossomed proteas, for example, will not tolerate excess phosphorus: they "glut" themselves on it and then die. The inexpensive soil test kits sold at garden centers can give you a rough idea of the nutrients available in various parts of your garden; for a more detailed evaluation, you may want to pay for a professional analysis. By revealing which nutrients may be lacking, such tests can help you choose an appropriate fertilizer.
GENERAL AND SPECIAL-PURPOSE FERTILIZERS
The various products labeled "general-purpose fertilizers" contain either equal amounts of each major nutrient (N-P-K ratio 12-12-12, for example) or a slightly higher percentage of nitrogen than of phosphorus and potassium (such as a 12-8-6 product). Such fertilizers are intended to meet most plants' general requirements throughout the growing season. Special-purpose fertilizers, on the other hand, are formulated for specific needs. They're aimed at the gardener who wants a particular combination of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium for certain plants or garden situations. These fertilizers are of three general types. One type, used during the period of active growth, contains largely nitrogen. Such products, with N-P-K ratios such as 16-6-4, are often used in spring, when you want to encourage lush growth or green up your lawn. Another type is meant to stimulate root growth, stem vigor, and flower and fruit production. Fertilizers of this sort contain little nitrogen and higher levels of phosphorus and potassium; the N-P-K ratio may be 3-20-20, for example. These products are applied at different times and in different ways, depending on what you want to achieve. When you prepare a new planting area, for instance, you'll work a dry granular fertilizer of this sort deeply into the soil, putting the phosphorus and potassium where roots can absorb them. The nutrients help strengthen the new plants' developing stems and encourage the growth of a dense network of roots. To promote flower production and increase the yields of fruit or vegetable crops, you apply the same sort of fertilizer to established plants after they've completed their first flush of growth. You can use either dry granules, scratching them lightly into the soil, or apply a liquid formula with a watering can or a hose-end applicator. A third group of fertilizers is designed for use on specific plants. These feature the N-P-K ratios determined to elicit the best performance from the particular plant, as well as other elements proven valuable to that plant. Such fertilizers are named according to the plant they're intended to nourish. Especially useful are formulas for citrus trees and acid-loving plants such as camellia and rhododendron. Recently, other such plant-specific fertilizers have appeared on nursery shelves, each claiming to be the best choice for a certain plant or group of plants; you may see several sorts of "tomato food" or "flower fertilizer," for example. The jury is still out on the benefit of many of these products, and you will often do just as well to use a general-purpose type. The main distinction is often the price: the "special" formulas are usually costlier than general-purpose kinds.
SYNTHETIC AND ORGANIC FERTILIZERS
Some fertilizers are manufactured in the laboratory, while others are derived from natural sources. Each has certain advantages.
Synthetic fertilizers
These products are derived from the chemical sources listed on the product label. They're faster acting than organic kinds and provide nutrients to plants quickly, making them a good choice for aiding plants in severe distress from nutrient deficiencies. Synthetic fertilizers are sold both as dry granules to be applied to the soil and as dry or liquid concentrates to be diluted in water before application. In dry form, they're usually less expensive than their organic counterparts. In some of the dry granular types (those known as controlled-release fertilizers), the fertilizer granules are coated with a permeable substance; with each watering, a bit of fertilizer diffuses through the coating and into the soil. Depending on the particular product, the nutrient release may last anywhere from 3 to 8 months. Some synthetic products are packaged for special purposes; you'll find spikes and tabs for container plants, for example. Note that synthetic fertilizers usually do not contain any of the secondary or micronutrients ― but in most cases, these nutrients are already present in the soil. If a test indicates that some are missing, look for a fertilizer that provides them.
Organic fertilizers
Organic fertilizers are derived from the remains of living organisms; blood meal, bone meal, cottonseed meal, and fish emulsion are just a few of the many available types. Organic fertilizers release their nutrients slowly: rather than dissolving in water, they're broken down by bacteria in the soil, providing nutrients as they decompose. Because these fertilizers act slowly, it's almost impossible to kill lawns or plants by applying too much (overdosing with synthetics, in contrast, can have potentially fatal results). Some manufacturers combine a variety of organic products in one package, then offer them for general-purpose or specialized use. Two commonly used soil amendments ― compost and manure ― have some nutritive value and can be used as part of an organic fertilizing program. The N-P-K ratio of compost varies from 1.5-.5-1 to 3.5-1-2. Chicken manure's N-P-K ratio ranges from 3-2.5-1.5 to 6-4-3; that of steer manure is usually a little less than 1-1-1. Fertilizers containing seaweed are gaining favor with many gardeners. Besides providing nutrients in a form immediately available to plants, seaweed contains mannitol, a compound that enhances absorption of nutrients already in the soil, and various hormones that stimulate plant growth. And the carbohydrates in seaweed break down rapidly, nourishing soil-dwelling bacteria that fix nitrogen and make it available to plant roots. Mixed with water and sprayed directly on foliage, seaweed-containing fertilizers can have dramatic effects in a matter of days. Plants green up and begin to produce new growth, and those that are weak stemmed and straggly straighten up and become stronger.
COMPLETE AND INCOMPLETE FERTILIZERS
A fertilizer containing all three major nutrients is called a complete fertilizer; a product that supplies only one or two of them is an incomplete fertilizer. Using a complete fertilizer for every garden purpose seems sensible, but in fact it isn't always the best choice. If the soil contains sufficient phosphorus and potassium and is deficient only in nitrogen (as is often the case), you can save money by using an incomplete fertilizer that provides nitrogen alone (ammonium sulfate, for example). In some instances, complete fertilizers can even harm a plant. Exotic, bright-blossomed proteas, for example, will not tolerate excess phosphorus: they "glut" themselves on it and then die. The inexpensive soil test kits sold at garden centers can give you a rough idea of the nutrients available in various parts of your garden; for a more detailed evaluation, you may want to pay for a professional analysis. By revealing which nutrients may be lacking, such tests can help you choose an appropriate fertilizer.
GENERAL AND SPECIAL-PURPOSE FERTILIZERS
The various products labeled "general-purpose fertilizers" contain either equal amounts of each major nutrient (N-P-K ratio 12-12-12, for example) or a slightly higher percentage of nitrogen than of phosphorus and potassium (such as a 12-8-6 product). Such fertilizers are intended to meet most plants' general requirements throughout the growing season. Special-purpose fertilizers, on the other hand, are formulated for specific needs. They're aimed at the gardener who wants a particular combination of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium for certain plants or garden situations. These fertilizers are of three general types. One type, used during the period of active growth, contains largely nitrogen. Such products, with N-P-K ratios such as 16-6-4, are often used in spring, when you want to encourage lush growth or green up your lawn. Another type is meant to stimulate root growth, stem vigor, and flower and fruit production. Fertilizers of this sort contain little nitrogen and higher levels of phosphorus and potassium; the N-P-K ratio may be 3-20-20, for example. These products are applied at different times and in different ways, depending on what you want to achieve. When you prepare a new planting area, for instance, you'll work a dry granular fertilizer of this sort deeply into the soil, putting the phosphorus and potassium where roots can absorb them. The nutrients help strengthen the new plants' developing stems and encourage the growth of a dense network of roots. To promote flower production and increase the yields of fruit or vegetable crops, you apply the same sort of fertilizer to established plants after they've completed their first flush of growth. You can use either dry granules, scratching them lightly into the soil, or apply a liquid formula with a watering can or a hose-end applicator. A third group of fertilizers is designed for use on specific plants. These feature the N-P-K ratios determined to elicit the best performance from the particular plant, as well as other elements proven valuable to that plant. Such fertilizers are named according to the plant they're intended to nourish. Especially useful are formulas for citrus trees and acid-loving plants such as camellia and rhododendron. Recently, other such plant-specific fertilizers have appeared on nursery shelves, each claiming to be the best choice for a certain plant or group of plants; you may see several sorts of "tomato food" or "flower fertilizer," for example. The jury is still out on the benefit of many of these products, and you will often do just as well to use a general-purpose type. The main distinction is often the price: the "special" formulas are usually costlier than general-purpose kinds.
SYNTHETIC AND ORGANIC FERTILIZERS
Some fertilizers are manufactured in the laboratory, while others are derived from natural sources. Each has certain advantages.
Synthetic fertilizers
These products are derived from the chemical sources listed on the product label. They're faster acting than organic kinds and provide nutrients to plants quickly, making them a good choice for aiding plants in severe distress from nutrient deficiencies. Synthetic fertilizers are sold both as dry granules to be applied to the soil and as dry or liquid concentrates to be diluted in water before application. In dry form, they're usually less expensive than their organic counterparts. In some of the dry granular types (those known as controlled-release fertilizers), the fertilizer granules are coated with a permeable substance; with each watering, a bit of fertilizer diffuses through the coating and into the soil. Depending on the particular product, the nutrient release may last anywhere from 3 to 8 months. Some synthetic products are packaged for special purposes; you'll find spikes and tabs for container plants, for example. Note that synthetic fertilizers usually do not contain any of the secondary or micronutrients ― but in most cases, these nutrients are already present in the soil. If a test indicates that some are missing, look for a fertilizer that provides them.
Organic fertilizers
Organic fertilizers are derived from the remains of living organisms; blood meal, bone meal, cottonseed meal, and fish emulsion are just a few of the many available types. Organic fertilizers release their nutrients slowly: rather than dissolving in water, they're broken down by bacteria in the soil, providing nutrients as they decompose. Because these fertilizers act slowly, it's almost impossible to kill lawns or plants by applying too much (overdosing with synthetics, in contrast, can have potentially fatal results). Some manufacturers combine a variety of organic products in one package, then offer them for general-purpose or specialized use. Two commonly used soil amendments ― compost and manure ― have some nutritive value and can be used as part of an organic fertilizing program. The N-P-K ratio of compost varies from 1.5-.5-1 to 3.5-1-2. Chicken manure's N-P-K ratio ranges from 3-2.5-1.5 to 6-4-3; that of steer manure is usually a little less than 1-1-1. Fertilizers containing seaweed are gaining favor with many gardeners. Besides providing nutrients in a form immediately available to plants, seaweed contains mannitol, a compound that enhances absorption of nutrients already in the soil, and various hormones that stimulate plant growth. And the carbohydrates in seaweed break down rapidly, nourishing soil-dwelling bacteria that fix nitrogen and make it available to plant roots. Mixed with water and sprayed directly on foliage, seaweed-containing fertilizers can have dramatic effects in a matter of days. Plants green up and begin to produce new growth, and those that are weak stemmed and straggly straighten up and become stronger.
Gardening their way to health and happiness
When we
define a good diet, it definitely includes fresh green leafy vegetables
and nutritious food rather than junk from fast food corners. But little
do we know where our vegetables come from.
With worsening
health conditions and an increasing interest in organic and sustainable
living, many people are turning to kitchen gardening. While it's a hobby
for some, others think of it as a solution to deteriorating health,
while still others see it as source of food and income generation.
Yogita Mehra,
an environment enthusiast, gave up her eight-year-long job as a
researcher for her growing concern about the vegetables she eats. "When I
came to know that kerosene was being injected into cabbages to keep
them pest-free, it was hard to rely on those vegetable supplies. I
bought a plot in Taleigao and began growing various vegetables, fruits
and herbs with the help of organic farming, where I would literally reap
what I was sowing and my husband was also very supportive," Mehra said.
She, along with her husband Karan Manral, believes in healthy eating
and is also a part of an online forum namely, 'All Goa Organic Gardeners' (goagardeners@googlegroups.com),
where they exchange saplings and organize workshops for beginners. She
also puts her effort along with some help from others into the
International Centre-Goa's (ICG) organic vegetable garden-Shaak Baag,
where they encourage organic and healthy cultivation.
The manure
being organic is not expensive and usually consists of green waste and
is chemical free. In this way, I know what goes into the vegetables and
it's delightful to be close to nature," she added.
Allergy
specialist Anita Dudhane, a resident of Kakra village, Taleigao, always
wanted to grow her own vegetables. "I thought the safest way to keep
chemical-injected food away was to grow some of my own. I grow salads,
herbs, brinjals, chillies and various other vegetables in my backyard.
My 11-year-old daughter accompanies me to kitchen gardening workshops
and also indulges in gardening with me. I have been doing this for a
year with organic compost and adopting techniques like mulching to
retain humidity and thus conserving water," she said. Mulch is a
protective cover placed over the soil to retain moisture, reduce
erosion, provide nutrients and suppress weed growth. Dudhane hired a
special gardener for this purpose, which is her other expense apart from
buying saplings and seeds.
Muriel D'Souza
and Mario Mascarenhas of Saligao have found more natural ways to bond
with nature. For the last two years, not only do they produce some
vegetables and fruits for their table and to share with their friends,
but they also recycle every drop of water being used in their home for
the garden. D'Souza and Mascarenhas along with their two home-schooled
children, Tarika and Suhail, manage their home along with the kitchen
garden. 'Organic food production' is an important environmental science
subject in their home school syllabus, and all of them spend study time
in their outdoor, garden classroom daily. "One of the reasons why we
began growing vegetables at home was because of the chemical fertilizers
and pesticides in the food we buy. Since there was a little spare land,
we thought of producing some of our own safe and healthy food, while
also passing on an important survival skill to the next generation.
Organic methods of farming, composting, mulching and recycling all
biodegradable wastes are a part and parcel of our kitchen gardening,"
said D'Souza.
Childhood Passion
Being interested in gardening right from his childhood, Prashant Maurya, a tour operator from Colva, works on a 250sq m area away from his home. He grows almost everything from ginger, amla, turmeric to seasonal delights such as pomegranate, pineapple, leeches and custard apple. "Even though I grow some vegetables and fruits on my own, I'm still not self-sufficient and have to rely on market supplies. I want to move into a village as my plot right now is far and I cannot devote much time to it. I use organic compost and have adopted water conservation techniques and mulching to retain all the necessary minerals needed for the plants".
He added, "After I came to Goa, I realized I could use the favorable climate to my benefit and began cultivating last May."
For Arjun
Rebelo, a kitchen garden just added to the beauty of his own backyard,
where he sustains a small poultry farm too. "The garden happened because
it's a hobby, good utilization of the space and my food is also not
affected by pesticides. It's cheap and I supplement it with organic
supplies like cow dung and green waste, so it's totally eco-friendly. At
times, I give the extra produce to my neighbours and at times people
buy it from me. It's not commercial yet but I'm looking forward to some
more development as time passes."
Courtesy - Times of India
Monday, June 4, 2012
Home Garden continued....
In 2012, I experimented with "inverted container garden". i.e growing plants in a hanging container in an upside down position. I shall say it was fairly successful.:-)
Since we live in a coastal town called Santa Cruz in CA, growing Okra/Lady's Finger was tough. The temperature drops drastically at night and the okra seedling would die off. Also the limited sun light I get restricted me from growing many veggies. Either they wouldn't come up or the yield was small. :-(
Looks like the weather here is best suited for flowers.
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